Classes, Castles, Camels, and Dhows

By Brid Beeler / / 31 May 2023

When I first went to live in Riyadh in 1989, I learned only a few basic Arabic words and phrases. But on returning to California in the early 2000s, I immersed myself in a two-month intensive summer program learning Modern Standard Arabic, known as Al Fusha, at University of California Berkeley. Since then, my Arabic studies have continued sporadically, and living and working in the region has given me the opportunity to use Arabic daily. Fast forward 20 years, and thanks to a generous scholarship, I have just returned from an eight-week Arabic course in the Sultanate of Oman at the Sultan Qaboos Institute for Teaching Arabic Language to Non-Native Speakers.

The institute is located in Manah, near Nizwa in Ad Dakhaliya Province, far from the distractions of Muscat. I was joined by 24 other international students, most of whom had studied Arabic at university and were attracted, as was I, by the Institute’s worldwide reputation. The intensive course was demanding, but excellent and extremely well organized. Our devoted instructors were always ready to provide personalized assistance and each student was assigned an individual language partner. These were university graduates from the area, who conversed with us in Arabic weekly throughout the course. In addition to classes and mountains of homework, we also had many extracurricular programs and field trips designed to introduce us to the richness of Omani culture.

These cultural activities included an evening highlighting Omani seafaring traditions, featuring fishermen from north of Sohar, birthplace of the fabled Sinbad the Sailor. Dressed in their colorful dishdashas and wazeers (traditional skirts), the fishermen entertained us with songs of the sea, replicating the movement of work at sea as they sang and pulled ropes. These fishermen spend four to six months yearly away from their families at sea trading and fishing aboard the dhows for which Oman is famous.

The following day we drove to Sur, to visit a shipyard where the dhows continue to be built, a centuries-old tradition maintaining Oman’s important cultural heritage and links with the world at large. After cavorting in the sands of the Wahibya enroute and swimming in the rock pools of Wadi Bani Khalid, we arrived late at Sur and toured the shipyard before boarding boats and sailing off into the glowing sunset. Back in Sur, we settled into our beach hotel, and I slipped off to sleep to the sounds of the lapping waves outside my window with a full moon shimmering off the water.

On another weekend, we all rose early (never my idea of fun) for a 7:00am departure to see the renowned Friday Al Habta goat market in Nizwa, which finishes by 9:00am. When we arrived, some 300 people were present, primarily Omani, who had come to buy and sell, barter and trade. Shouts came from the crowd for the herders to bring the animals closer for inspection in the hopes of making a fast and quick sale. Tense negotiations were conducted at light speed; if a buyer wasn’t ready to move, someone else snapped up the coveted animal. As we were about to leave, the sound of throbbing drums beckoned us through the narrow alleyways, to where 30 to 40 men were performing the Bar’ah (a warlike dance). Their powerful voices rang out, chanting poetry as the drums boomed and swords swung high into the air. It was the perfect ending to a perfect morning. Sleep could always come later.

Husn Jabrin, in Al Dakhaliyah, is the jewel in the crown of Omani castles. Visiting there on another break from study, we followed our female Omani guide through the maze of winter, summer, and day rooms used depending on the temperature and season. The painted floral ceilings decorated with verses from the Koran are a must-see, as are the gypsum designs on staircases and elsewhere. The early morning arrival was worth it as we had the eerily silent castle all to ourselves. Other groups began arriving only as we were leaving.

From Jabrin, we proceeded to Bahla and to the restored old souq. Not a large area, but a delight to walk through and see the old antiques for sale, along with palm mats, perfumes, and frankincense from Dhofar Province. It was a perfect place to stroll without the crowds, witnessing a more traditional lifestyle that continues today in this little gem of a souq.

Another day and we were off to the races...camel races, that is…held at Adam in Sharquiyah and attended by enthusiasts from all around the Gulf. Prizes for the winners included brand new top-of-the-line Toyota Land Cruisers and a 4x4 Lexus! We arrived in time to watch the camels being lined up behind a gate, not unlike a horse race, but not penned into individual stalls, but just crammed together side by side. Surprisingly, human jockeys were not riding the camels. Instead, mechanical robot ‘jockeys’ were controlled remotely as the owners drove alongside in their Land Cruisers, urging their camels to go faster. From the starting line, we madly tore off in vehicles to the grandstand, where we joined the dignitaries seated in the large gold leaf cushioned chairs.

After the winning camel crossed the finish line, we were invited by the Wakil of the region to visit a Bedouin home and majalis. This area is home to Bedouin tribes who live with their camels in the traditional way. We were welcomed by the women and children who had gahwa and chai on hand, along with fruits, more helwa, fatayer and other savoury dishes prepared for our visit.

Throughout the course, our instructors and the staff at the Sultan Qaboos Institute went out of their way to ensure we experienced the depth of Omani culture and traditions. In addition to the above, there were demonstrations of calligraphy, henna painting, an Omani fashion show, and more trips than I can relate here, including a very special visit to the many attractions of Muscat. Unlike other ‘flashy’ cities of the Gulf, Muscat has a calm air of elegance which I particularly enjoy. I look forward to returning for many more visits, to Muscat, to Manah, and to the very special friends I made at the Sultan Qaboos Institute for Teaching the Arabic Language.

Camping with Camels: My Introduction to the Kingdom - Part I

About the Author: Brid Beeler first went to live in Saudi Arabia in 1989 and stayed for a decade. Her career then led her to live and work in Yemen and Oman and work for some of the world’s top travel companies. She currently heads Brid Beeler Travel (www.bridbeelertravel.com) and travels in and out of the Kingdom regularly on tour or collaborating on programs. She has traversed every corner of Arabia and is never happier than delving into the culture and treasures of the peninsula.

Brid began taking American travelers to Saudi Arabia in 1998 and, in addition to operating tours, she has trained guides, worked on award-winning documentaries, and written extensively on the region. In 2015, she was the Tour Director for the Smithsonian tour to Saudi Arabia, Oman and Qatar, which followed their internationally acclaimed Roads of Arabia exhibit.

She has presented papers on eco-tourism in the Middle East region and was one of only a handful of women invited by the National Commission for Wildlife Conservation & Development and the Supreme Commission for Tourism to speak at the first International Conference on Eco-Tourism in Saudi Arabia in 2002. She has written for Foreign Affairs and the Arab British Chamber of Commerce. In addition, she has published travel articles in Middle Eastern newspapers and spoken on Middle Eastern travel at embassy functions in Washington DC. A strong proponent of Middle Eastern art, culture and traditions, she has spoken on the ethnic silver jewelry of the Arabian Peninsula at the Chester Beatty Library in Dublin Castle.

Back home in Ireland, Brid enjoys walks on the beach with her latest saluki, Rishan.

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