Remarkable vistas, friendly and gracious guests, and authentic crafts and food were all on tap for the recent three-day tour of Asir offered by the Saudi Aramco Employees Association.
(Photos: Chiara Ciampricotti)
Saudi Aramco Employees Association offers up an adventure unlike any other
In the Kingdom’s Southwest, there exists a province unlike any other. With high, rolling hills that seem to stretch forever toward a cloudy horizon, the landscape, the people, the heritage, and the weather are a special blend that provide a welcome surprise for visitors.
by Chiara Ciampricotti Iacoangeli
Incredibly steep and windy roads mark the Asir skyline, rising to cool mountain air. Hairpin curves require motorists to take it slowly along the narrow two-lane roads, especially since vehicles are likely to be parked along areas where the scenic vistas are most breathtaking.
Asir — The Saudi Aramco Employees Association recently hosted a perfect weekend trip to the most lushly vegetated region of the Kingdom, Asir.
For three days, we spent an amazing time traveling around the area with a professional guide. The success of this trip was also due to the fantastic support of Faisal Arab and Manal Hammad, the chairman and co-chairwoman, respectively, who volunteered to take the group on this unforgettable journey.
Like No Other Place in the Kingdom
Asir, from the Arabic ‘asir, means “difficult country” and it is the province of southwestern Saudi Arabia at the border with Yemen. It contains the country’s highest peaks, which rise to almost 3,000 meters, and receives more rainfall than any other province in the country. The foggy highlands provide an interesting ecosystem for the coniferous trees to grow in abundance. Dense forests, cool temperatures and steep mountains are characteristic of the area.
After some research, I found out that Asir receives up to 500 millimeters of rain annually. Two rainy seasons take place between March and April, and some additional showers are expected over the summer.
Temperatures here can be extreme, with daytime temperature swings considered some of the greatest in the world. Indeed, afternoon temperatures can rise over 30°C, contrasting with the mornings, which can be very chilly and foggy with very minimal visibility. This region is considered to be the wettest and the mildest in terms of climate. There is much more vegetation and greenery compared to the rest of the Kingdom, as it hosts sheltered areas with coniferous forests while more open areas, such as peaks, are desolated and have almost no plants.
The Adventure Begins
We landed and stayed in Abha, the capital city of the region. Since we arrived late at night, we couldn’t see a lot of the surrounding area. In the morning, we were unexpectedly woken by the sounds of a congress of wild baboons running on the roof above us. An ever greater surprise came when we opened the curtains of our bedroom, as the view from our window was breathtaking. A variety of different shaped mountains lay before us, in a spectacular vista of colors.
In our SUV, we started going up and down incredibly steep mountain roads, which were full of hairpin curves. Every now and then, the guide took a moment to stop and let us enjoy the marvelous views.
The feeling of being in the wildness increased when we started our first adventure. We were told that we were free to have a hiking experience up the mountain or rest under the trees. Almost everybody chose to make the hike, even though it was harder than expected as there were no clearly marked trails to follow. We managed, with some difficulty, to reach the mountaintop. After much strenuous effort, we were greatly rewarded with the astonishingly beautiful panorama, which made our spirits soar. On the way back down, doing our best not to stumble, we came across a herd of goats with their agile shepherd, who was nimbly jumping from one rock to another to collect them.
The “flower men” of Asir — whose name stems from the colorful garments and garlands of flowers they wear upon their heads — perform a traditional song and dance, leaping into the air and shaking their daggers. The dance recounts a time when their home village, Habala, was accessible only by a rope ladder, making it impregnable to enemies.
The ‘Flower Men’
Our next stop was at the local museum, where our tour guide assured us that a major attraction was awaiting us — the “flower men.” A group of men with colorful garments and garlands of flowers on top of their heads were looking forward to welcoming us with their traditional dance. They sang and danced around in a circle, leaping into the air and shaking their daggers.
The tradition recounts that many years ago, when they lived in Habala — which means “rope” in Arabic — their village was only accessible by a rope ladder, making it impregnable to enemies. In the 1990s, the Saudi Arabian government, hoping to increase tourism in the region, built cable cars in the villages and hotels. Ultimately, the “flower men” were asked to move to more modern villages created for them in the valley below.
The kind of art featured at the Fatima Art Gallery is not taught in schools but is passed down from generation to generation.
Art as Heritage Preservation
The local museum offered a glimpse of the traditional house interiors and hosts collections of ancient utensils. A further anthropological understanding of the local culture was possible when we saw the Fatima Art Gallery, which is owned by a well-known artist in the area whose house has been converted into a museum featuring traditional ancient inscriptions.
This kind of art is not taught in the schools but passed down from generation to generation. The main concept expressed in the art is that every color embodies a sensory organ and every form is the symbol of a human touch that is rooted deep inside the soul. The gallery’s ultimate goal is to preserve the heritage.
We were received in the parlor, or majlis, of this Saudi house, which was decorated with lines, triangles and squares, bright colors — with both simple and intricate patterns. Such rooms were traditionally painted by women and considered to be an element of pride.
In the afternoon, we hit the lively downtown Abha. We stopped in the art center of the city, where many artists had their own studio and showroom. We met many enthusiastic talented youngsters eager to tell us about their paintings and their interpretations.
Soon after we visited the souq nearby, where we could taste different flavors of honey, smelled strong incense, admired the fresh and dried herbs and spices, tried on abayas embellished by the traditional colorful patterns, admired the carved jewelry, which was quite possibly a part of a bride’s dowry, and observed the handmade ceramic pots and local art and crafts.
Beautiful panoramas such as this are what keep bringing tourists back to Asir, with colorful mountains and deep, massive valleys stretching out for as far as the eye can see.
An Authentic Taste of Asir
The following day we discovered the unique mud and stone buildings of traditional villages.
Rijal Alma was the first village we visited. It is a beautifully restored and well-preserved site. It is situated at the foot of the Assouda Mountains, where an ancient trade route connecting Yemen and the rest of the Arabian Peninsula and the Red Sea was present.
Its gingerbread colored buildings are made of local stones. Watchtowers are strategically placed all over the hillsides as they were used as lookouts in case of sudden attacks. Those structures tell much about the culture of its inhabitants, who capitalized on the materials at their disposal to make complex structures. As a consequence, houses were solid and designed to be both mini-fortresses and comfortable habitations. The stone buildings hide an unexpected surprise once you go inside: colorful walls with paintings and patchwork made by the local artisans.
Continuing the tour, we saw numerous cultivated terraces on the steep mountain sides, which showed us how important the agriculture is for the economy of the region. We enjoyed a traditional meal in the heritage museum restaurant. It was so quirky because of the artistic interiors and the rich collections displayed. Finally, the most enjoyable experience was having the food cooked and distributed by local families. It was a way to support the local economy and let the guests know the true regional recipes, like the most delicious homemade bread.
The second village we saw was al-Olayan, where the same building technique was used but the stones’ color was lighter. It looked like an intricate maze of tight paths. Small doors led into tiny rooms, narrow and steep stairs led into the upper floors. Everything recalled ancient times.
Just a few hours before our departure, we were to look at the landscape one last time from an unusual view — a cable car. Unfortunately, we were unable to do so due to the sudden onset of weather conditions, including thunder and lightning.
Our journey came to an end with an incredible and unexpected hailstorm, something so far from our imagination living in the hot Eastern Province. Taking off in the plane, with a final look down from the window at the mountains below, we captured an unforgettable sight to remember.